The links among wine, place, and identity are both cultural and agricultural. Local tradition often informs the many decisions made during the growing of grapes (viticulture) and the making of wine (viniculture), but wine also reflects the physical environment in which the grapes are grown
About Joseph Tobin
I just received an e-mail from an admirer of Gastronomica who wrote to say how much she liked the latest issue (Winter 2003), adding that “I’ll never look at a jelly donut again without blushing.”
Stalin and Wheat; In Praise of Mock Food; The Enteric Terrors of Washington Irving; Great Apes as Food; A Roman Anchovy’s Tale; Reading Commune Cookbooks; Peruvian Coffee; What I Never Ate in India; Wine, Place, and Identity in a Changing Climate; The Food Stylist’s Art; Food Trends in Finland; Teaching Children to Cook, Clean, and (Often) Conform; and more…
To open a restaurant takes a strong desire and the willingness to put everything you have on the line—everything. Naha, the restaurant owned by my cousin Michael Nahabedian and me, is the culmination of years of being in the only business I have ever known.
One can say this about American waitresses: despite their enormous numbers and their daily presence in American life, and despite all the stereotypes they carry (along with pad, towel, crumber, corkscrew, and tray), they have been overlooked and understudied.
We discovered long ago that the simple sharing of a meal eases conversation and lubricates otherwise difficult discourse. But can we get beyond table talk to something more meaningful?
Weight Watchers at Forty: A Celebration; Sonja Alhäuser’s Sweet Installations; Vodka and Jewish Culture in Poland Today; The Skinny on Fat; Train Oil and Snotters: Eating Antarctic Wild Foods; On the Indigenization of Philippine Food; The Molecular Tourist; Shark Bait; The Propitiatory Meal; Joe Baum: An Exaltation of Larks; Hey, Waitress!; and more…
As I donned my apron on the morning of October 7, 1989, and joined my fellow apprentices in the kitchen of the Ratshaus—the Mayor’s Office and Town Hall in Plauen, East Germany—I knew that I would be prepping for the most elaborate meal of my young career: the feast commemorating the fortieth anniversary of the Deutsche Demokratische Republik (DDR).
Mikhail Larionov’s Still Life with Crayfish (circa 1910–1912) is a spectacle of simple, severe, bold form and color, a result of the artist’s intense engagement with Russian folk art traditions.
But global warming is not my greatest worry at the moment, nor is the temperature an acceptable excuse. For the first time in my life I am facing what can only be described as cook’s block.