About Joseph Tobin

Author Archive | Joseph Tobin
From the Editor | Darra Goldstein

Possessing the Past

For a few years now I’ve been teaching a course in Russian culture and cuisine that ends with an extravagant feast. It’s always fun, but this semester the class ended with a question, in the form of an object.

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Issues | Volume 3 Number 3

Summer 2003

Falafel: A National Icon; Cooking Lessons; Postrevolutionary Chowhounds: Food, Globalization, and the Italian Left; Writing Out of the Kitchen: Carême and the Invention of French Cuisine; Thai Egg-Based Sweets; The Return of the Zin; Evacuation Day, or a Foodie is Bummed Out; Sourdough Culture; Rock ’n’ Roll Cooking; Growing Food in Suburbia; Arrows Restaurant, Ogunquit, Maine; GM Foods: “Miracle or Menace?”; and more…

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Chef's Page | José Rodríguez Rey

El Bohio: Illescas, Toledo, Spain

What really drives my cooking today are well-chosen ingredients that represent the best of our region, Castilla la Mancha. In addition to such basic fish as salmon, hake, turbot, and sole, we prepare sea bass, gilthead bream, grouper, lobster, and cod, as well as some inferior but equally succulent fish, such as porgy.

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Ecology | Robert Pincus

Wine, Place, and Identity in a Changing Climate

The links among wine, place, and identity are both cultural and agricultural. Local tradition often informs the many decisions made during the growing of grapes (viticulture) and the making of wine (viniculture), but wine also reflects the physical environment in which the grapes are grown

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From the Editor | Darra Goldstein

Judging by the Covers

I just received an e-mail from an admirer of Gastronomica who wrote to say how much she liked the latest issue (Winter 2003), adding that “I’ll never look at a jelly donut again without blushing.”

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Issues | Volume 3 Number 2

Spring 2003

Stalin and Wheat; In Praise of Mock Food; The Enteric Terrors of Washington Irving; Great Apes as Food; A Roman Anchovy’s Tale; Reading Commune Cookbooks; Peruvian Coffee; What I Never Ate in India; Wine, Place, and Identity in a Changing Climate; The Food Stylist’s Art; Food Trends in Finland; Teaching Children to Cook, Clean, and (Often) Conform; and more…

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Chef's Page | Carrie Nahabedian

A Family Affair: Naha, Chicago, Illinois

To open a restaurant takes a strong desire and the willingness to put everything you have on the line—everything. Naha, the restaurant owned by my cousin Michael Nahabedian and me, is the culmination of years of being in the only business I have ever known.

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Americana | Alison Owings

Hey, Waitress!

One can say this about American waitresses: despite their enormous numbers and their daily presence in American life, and despite all the stereotypes they carry (along with pad, towel, crumber, corkscrew, and tray), they have been overlooked and understudied.

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From the Editor | Darra Goldstein

Beyond Table Talk

We discovered long ago that the simple sharing of a meal eases conversation and lubricates otherwise difficult discourse. But can we get beyond table talk to something more meaningful?

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Issues | Volume 3 Number 1

Winter 2003

Weight Watchers at Forty: A Celebration; Sonja Alhäuser’s Sweet Installations; Vodka and Jewish Culture in Poland Today; The Skinny on Fat; Train Oil and Snotters: Eating Antarctic Wild Foods; On the Indigenization of Philippine Food; The Molecular Tourist; Shark Bait; The Propitiatory Meal; Joe Baum: An Exaltation of Larks; Hey, Waitress!; and more…

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