Category: Issues

Editorial Letter | Krishnendu Ray

Beyond Bourdieu: What Tomatoes in Indian Recipes Tell Us about “Taste” | Sucharita Kanjilal

Tsukemono (Japanese pickles) and Their Traditional Vegetables | Aya H. Kimura

How to Stuff a Duck: Learning Artisan Foie Gras Production in France | Jean Lavigne

Risky but Raw: On (Not) Regulating One of the Most High-Risk Dishes in Japan | Benjamin Schrager

Deflated Michelin: An Exploration of the Changes in Values in the Culinary Profession and Industry | Raúl Matta and Padma Panchapakesan

Stirring the Pot: Calendario de Comida 1976, Chicano Art as Food Activism | L. Stephen Velasquez

Don’t Forget the Tomatoes for My Funeral | Teresa Politano

The Year of the Lobster: Decadence and Disgust in Pandemic Times | Andrew Simmons

Mixed Emotions: Cutting and Pasting through Loss, Detritus, and Forced Isolation During COVID-19 | Carolyn Tillie

Herrings, High-Rises, and Hongeo: Encounters with Korean Food Culture | Frank Dax

Rice Cultures of Bengal | Debal Deb

REVIEWS

Fruteros: Street Vending, Illegality, and Ethnic Community in Los Angeles by Rocío Rosales
Reviewed by Noah Allison

Food Routes: Growing Bananas in Iceland and Other Tales from the Logistics of Eating by Robyn Metcalfe
Reviewed by Deborah Cowen

Cookbook Politics by Kennan Ferguson
Reviewed by Jennifer L. Holm

Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles by Laura Gabbert
Reviewed by Joe Karisny

Shifting Food Facts: Dietary Discourse in a Post-Truth Culture by Alissa Overend
Reviewed by Samantha King

The Man Who Ate Too Much: The Life of James Beard by John Birdsall
Reviewed by Jennifer R. Shutek

The Sultan’s Feast: A Fifteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook
by Ibn Mubārak Shāh; edited, translated, and introduced by Daniel L. Newman
Reviewed by Limor Yungman

Editorial Letter | Paula J. Johnson

PORTRAYING THE “OTHER”
Eating (with) the Other: Race in American Food Television | Alison Hope Alkon and Rafi Grosglik

Anti-Black Racism in Food Advertising: Rogers’ Golden Syrup and the Imagery of White Supremacy in the Canadian West | Donica Belisle

Roundtable: The Great Italics Debate | The Gastronomica Editorial Collective

THE POLITICS OF SCALE
Chicken Politics: Agrifood Capitalism, Anxious Bodies, and the New Meanings of Chicken Meat in India | Michaël Bruckert

Household and Community Gardens Surge in the Philippines and Senegal during COVID-19: How Do Contrasting Models Speak to Different Visions for Future Food Systems? | Halie Kampman, Shun-Nan Chiang, and Salam Sawadogo

IMAGINATIONS AND IDENTITIES
Japanese Immigrants’ Pantry: Creating Eating Habits and Identities with Brazilian Ingredients | Eric Funabashi

The Bittersweet Potato in the Taiwanese Imagination | Shang-Huei Liang

Kitchenlessness, or The Migrant’s Affair with Food | Gema Charmaine Gonzales

PLACE, KNOWLEDGE, AND CUISINE
Digesting Peru in Brooklyn: The Flavor of Culinary Nationalism | Amy Cox Hall

Well Rooted: An Interview with Chef Rob Connoley | Daniel E. Bender

When the Rainbows Bring the Crawfish | V. Constanza Ocampo-Raeder

FEEDING THE SOUL
Before Everything Else | Anne Finger

Meditations on Entropy in the Kitchen | Sam Browett

Love, Math, and Brunello di Montalcino | Maria Finn

REVIEWS
Sugarcane and Rum: The Bittersweet History of Labor and Life on the Yucatán Peninsula, by John R. Gust and Jennifer P. Mathews
Reviewed by Valeria Mantilla Morales

Feeding the Crisis: Care and Abandonment in America’s Food Safety Net, by Maggie Dickinson
Reviewed by Merin Oleschuk

Women Who Dig: Farming, Feminism, and the Fight to Feed the World, by Trina Moyles, photographs by KJ Dakin
Reviewed by Claire Perttula

Food Fights: How History Matters to Contemporary Food Debates, edited by Charles C. Ludington and Matthew M. Booker
Reviewed by Signe Rousseau

Of Morsels and Marvels by Maryse Condé, edited by Charles C. Ludington and Matthew M. Booker, translated by Richard Philcox
Reviewed by Jacqueline Sarro

Once Was Water, a film by Christopher Beaver and Diana Fuller
Reviewed by Christy Spackman

Politics of Food, edited by Aaron Cezar and Dani Burrows
Reviewed by Pamela Tudge

Editorial Letter | James Farrer

FOOD AND POWER
A Seat at the Table: The Western Dining Table as a Symbol of Power | Mackensie Griffin

“The Child Needs Milk and Milk Needs a Market”: The Politics of Nutrition in the Interwar Yishuv | Efrat Gilad

Ketchup as a Vegetable: Condiments and the Politics of School Lunch in Reagan’s America | Amy Bentley

CARE, WORK, AND MEMORY
Paqueteros and Paqueteras: Humanizing a Dehumanized Food System | Alyshia Gálvez

“If you haven’t shaoguo‘ed, you haven’t eaten”: Sensorial Landscapes of Belonging in the Kitchens of Rural China | Erin Thomason

Ruby’s Oyster Dressing, or Edible Nostalgia | Matthew Meduri

INTERROGATING THE CHEF
MasterChef: A Master Class in Fight, Flight, or Flambé? | Andrea Oskis

Around the World in 50 Restaurants: The Curious Irony of Hyperlocal Food | John Broadway

Spilling Ink and Cleaning Oil: The Intersection of Disaster and Design at La Marine | Rasmus R. Simonsen

COVID-19 DISPATCHES
Rumor, Chinese Diets, and COVID-19: Questions and Answers about Chinese Food and Eating Habits | Edited by Michelle T. King, Jia-Chen Fu, Miranda Brown, and Donny Santacaterina

Food Rescue Networks and the Food System | Leda Cooks

Feeding the City, Pandemic and Beyond: A Research Brief | Bryan Dale and Jayeeta Sharma

Lunch Interrupted! COVID-19 and Japan’s School Meals | Alexis Agliano Sanborn

“Muita Galinha, Pouco Ovo”: Food, COVID-19, and the Screen That Separates Us | Yara Ferreira Clüver

Bean Soup | Sayzie Koldys

Succulent | Alison Pearlman

Drinking to the Wolf in a Time of Pandemic (or War or Peace) | Gregory Emilio

REVIEWS
El Susto, a film by Karen Akins
Reviewed by Melissa Fuster

Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water by Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt
Reviewed by David Gentilcore

Black Food Geographies: Race, Self-Reliance and Food Access in Washington, D.C. by Ashanté M. Reese
Reviewed by Chhaya Kolavalli

De los plátanos de Oller a los Food Trucks: Comida, alimentación y cocina puertorriqueña en ensayos y recetas (From Oller’s Plantains to Food Trucks: Food, Eating, and Puerto Rican Cuisine in Essays and Recipes)
by Cruz Miguel Ortiz Cuadra, Reviewed by Mónica B. Ocasio Vega

When Banana Ruled, a film by Mathilde Damoisel
Reviewed by Alyssa Paredes

Stirrings: How Activist New Yorkers Ignited a Movement for Food Justice by Lana Dee Povitz
Reviewed by Chris Staysniak

The Chile Pepper in China: A Cultural Biography
by Brian R. Dott, Reviewed by Mark Swislocki

Editorial Letter | Eric C. Rath

COVID-19 DISPATCHES
The Anxiety Kitchen, or Cooking for the People I Cannot Hug | Erica Berry

Looking for Relief | Caitlin McGill

Migration and Meal Boxes | Saanjh Gupta

The Food and COVID-19 NYC Archive: Mapping the Pandemic’s Effect on Food in Real Time | Amy Bentley and Stephanie Borkowsky

Decoding Miracle Food Cures for COVID-19 | Adrienne Bitar

“Do You Deliver?” Teaching a Culinary Arts Internship Course in Brooklyn as New York City Became the COVID-19 Epicenter | David Goldberg

Food and Art in Times of Crisis | Yael Raviv

Staff Meal in the Time of COVID-19 | Elizabeth Moroney

WORKING WITH INGREDIENTS
Salmon on the Table | John Gifford

Chicken for Everyone? A Cultural Political Economy of the Popularity of Chicken Meat in Bolivia | Sarah Kollnig

Viniculture, Social Justice, and the Environment | Scott Haas

TECHNOLOGY AND TASTE IN EAST ASIA
Technology and Taste in East Asia: An Introduction | Eric C. Rath

Taste as Governor: Soy Sauce in Late Chosŏn and Colonial Korea | Kyoungjin Bae

Numbing Aesthetics: Taste and Tempers of Peppercorn / Mountain Pepper / Sanshō | Lan A. Li

Technologies of Taste: Restaurant Guides, Diners, and Dining Halls in Interwar Tokyo | Eric C. Rath

EXCURSIONS
Food Desert or Food Oasis? Insights from Mexican Chicago | Coline Ferrant and Gary Alan Fine

Lucile’s Scrapbook: A Voyage around the World, 1937 | Daniel E. Bender

DOLCE
Respecting the Circle | Andrea Chase

Limoncello | Janine Certo

REVIEWS
Eat Joy: Stories & Comfort Food from 31 Celebrated Writers
edited by Natalie Eve Garrett, reviewed by Julieta Flores Jurado

Lost Feast: Culinary Extinction and the Future of Food
by Lenore Newman, reviewed by L. Sasha Gora

Leftovers: Eating, Drinking and Re-thinking with Case Studies from Post-war French Fiction
by Ruth Cruickshank, reviewed by Jennifer L. Holm

A Taste of Barcelona: The History of Catalan Cooking and Eating
by H. Rosi Song and Anna Riera, reviewed by Marta Manzanares Mileo

Food, Feminisms, Rhetorics
edited by Melissa A. Goldthwaite, reviewed by Jennifer O’Connor

The Food Sharing Revolution: How Start-Ups, Pop-Ups, and Co-Ops Are Changing the Way We Eat
by Michael S. Carolan, reviewed by Chloé Poitevin-DesRivières

Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai America
by Mark Padoongpatt, reviewed by Lok Siu

Editorial Letter | Robert T. Valgenti

FROM THE KITCHEN
Recipe for Wild Dandelions | Sandra Trujillo

It’s Never Just about Food: Teaching Homeschool Food History from a Pandemic Pantry | Katherine Hysmith

Daylily Samosa | Kiyomi Seko

Distractibaking: A Note on the Psychology of Baking in Times of the COVID-19 Crisis | Sebastian Ocklenburg

The Aroma of the Old Kitchen | Laia Shamirian Pulido

Bad Virus, Good Microbes: The Global Domestication of Yeast Cultures and the COVID-19 Pandemic | Noa Berger and Daniel Monterescu

Eating the Plague | Ariana Gunderson

No Vegetarians in a Pandemic | Sarah E. Cramer

Festival in the Time of COVID-19 | Naa Oyo A. Kwate

FROM THE PASS
Anticipation | Mike Bacha

Face Mask for Food in the Time of COVID-19 | Carl Fleischhauer

The Sickness unto Hospitality | Stephen Meinster

Port in a Storm: Weathering the COVID-19 Crisis as a Restaurant Worker | Carlynn Crosby

Puerto Rico’s Neverending Crisis | Rafael N. Ruiz Mederos

Everything Will Be All Right | Giuseppe Ceccarelli

On the Other Side of the Curve: China’s Restaurateurs Face an Uphill Battle | James Farrer

Before It All Goes Away | Daryl Li

Community Health Research, Restaurants, and Adjusting amid Uncertainty | Melissa Fuster

Your Local Chinese Place Has a “Shelter-in-Place Dinner Special” | Dustin Wright

Weeded from Home | Emma Honcharski

FROM THE TABLE
The Stockpile and the Letdown | Jessica Carbone

The Enduring Hand of Italian Cuisine | Nicola Iafrate

So Far, Not Much Has Changed | Hannah Camp-Arthur

Making Rasam by the Eye during Uncertain Times | Smruthi Bala Kannan

Social Eating 2.0 | G. Solorzano, Emilia Cordero Oceguera, Heather McCarty Johnson and Sarah Bowen

Commensality in Crisis | Caitlin Morgan

What Will I Feed My Family Today? Food Decisions during COVID-19 on the US-Mexico Borderlands | Guillermina Gina Núñez-Mchiri

The Approaching Apocalypse | Krishnendu Ray

FROM THE COMMUNITY
Ration | Bharati Chaturvedi

A COVID-19 Relief Kitchen Created by an Unexpected Advocate | Ashley Rose Young

Food Insecurity and Bayanihan in the Locked-Down Philippines | Marvin Joseph F. Montefrio

A Privilege for All Times | Priti Narayan

Adapting Queer Foodways | Gabrielle Lenart

“Checking In with Your People”: Food, Mutual Aid, Black Feminism, and COVID-19 | Makshya Lenia Tolbert

Feeding Abandoned Animals in the Pandemic | Aditya Kiran Nag

Lockdown Destitution: Delhi, March 2020 | Saumya Gupta

“Normal” Lunch in a Pandemic: Shining a Spotlight on Chicago Public Schools’ Food | Aiko Kojima Hibino

The Impact of COVID-19 on Dutch Food Banks: A Call on Government to Guarantee the Right-to-Food | Jeroen Candel and Ingrid de Zwarte

Government Response to Support Local Farmers in the Face of COVID-19: A Case of South Korea | Seulgi Son

Is Life Only about a Virus? COVID-19 and Its Impact on Food Security | Lis Blanco

FROM THE MARKET
Buy an Orange | Emily Monaco

When Staples Vanished: Supermarket Panic-Buying during the COVID-19 Pandemic | Erin C. Kawazu and Fernando Ortiz-Moya

Dispatch from an Essential Worker | Danielle Jacques

A Middle-Class Neighborhood Survives a Pandemic | Shayani Raneesha Jayasinghe

Reclaiming Roots | Jessica Evans

Junk Food Solidarity | Ree Pashley

Here, with a Handbasket | Stephanie Jolly

Brotzeit: Dispatch from Munich | L. Sasha Gora

South Africa under Lockdown | Jacques Rousseau

I Miss the Grocery Store the Most | Amanda Blum

FROM OUR FOODWAYS
Labor and the Love of Asparagus | Sebile Yapici

In Quarantined France | Ciara McLaren

Uncertainty and Broken Foodways | Alejandro Dungla

Italian Farmers and Migrant Farmworkers: Food Activism and Food Justice in the Time of COVID-19 | Patrizia La Trecchia

Sociability, Farmers’ Markets, and COVID-19 | Amy B. Trubek

Migrants Bearing the Brunt of Lockdown | Dharmendra Kumar

On COVID-19: Food and/as Mutualism | Rachel Vaughn

Fighting COVID-19 with Anti-Corona Sandesh | Ishita Dey

Blue City | Josie Martin

REVIEWS
Good Apples: Behind Every Bite
by Susan Futrell, reviewed by Ning Dai

Food Justice and Narrative Ethics: Reading Stories for Ethical Awareness and Activism
by Beth A. Dixon, reviewed by Eric Himmelfarb

Grain by Grain: A Quest to Revive Ancient Wheat, Rural Jobs, and Healthy Food
by Bob Quinn and Liz Carlisle, reviewed by Carolyn Hricko

How the Shopping Cart Explains Global Consumerism
by Andrew Warnes, reviewed by Lisa Stowe

Messy Eating: Conversations on Animals as Food
edited by Samantha King, R. Scott Carey, Isabel Macquarrie, Victoria N. Millious, and Elaine M. Power, reviewed by Brody Trottier

Food Democracy: Critical Lessons in Food, Communication, Design and Art
edited by Oliver Vodeb, reviewed by Pamela Tudge