Gastronomica

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Mark Morton's Ort of the Week

spurtle

On the east coast of Canada and in Scotland, the stick used to stir porridge is known as a spurtle. The original function of the spurtle, however, was somewhat different: in the sixteenth century, when the word first appeared, it denoted a flat-bladed utensil used to turn oatcakes in the oven. Variants of "spurtle" have also existed: in the fifteenth century the implement was known as a "spattle," and in the seventeenth century as a "spartle." All of these forms may owe their existence to the word "spatula": although English did not adopt "spatula" from Latin until the sixteenth century, a French form of the word, "spatule," began to appear in English medical treatises in the early fifteenth century. (In a medical context, the function of a "spatule" was to spread ointments and unguents.) Throughout its history and into the present day, "spurtle" has had a rival in "thivel," another name for a stick used to stir porridge. The co-existence of these two words attests to the English penchant for either porridge or redundancy. Today, the currency of "spurtle" is being ensured by the Golden Spurtle World Porridge Making Championship, held annually in Carrbridge, Scotland.

mark morton is the author of Cupboard Love: A Dictionary of Culinary Curiosities (Insomniac Press, 2004). His most recent books are The Lover's Tongue: A Merry Romp through the Language of Love and Sex and The End: Closing Words for a Milennium. He teaches English literature at the University of Winnipeg in Canada.

previous orts:
appetite
plague-water
nym
spork